Taking Photos in Manual Mode

Before you read this blog and experiment with the settings, check out my friend Carley Calico’s blog on photo composition. While settings are a big part of creating a beautiful photograph, composition plays a major role, too.

Ok, so there are three main features to master for beginner photography in manual. I stress beginner because I know the pros are snickering at this statement. Regardless, these three features will give you the skills to capture beautiful photos in manual mode. So when you say, “Yeah, I took that. No big deal” you can brush your shoulders off, too, because you did take the photo without relying on your camera. Go on, *brush your shoulders off*.

The three features are:

• ISO
• Shutter Speed
• Aperture

You’ll notice a trend in these features – light. Each settings can affect how much light your camera absorbs which can affect exposure. Too much light and a photo can be overexposed where as too much little can result in an underexposed photo. It’s a tricky situation to balance the three amigos, but once you start adjusting the settings frequently, you’ll learn which is the right one to adjust and how much.

ISO is the sensitivity of an image sensor. A lower ISO means a lower sensitivity to light. However, the photo is also less grainy. Higher ISOs can be used in darker lighting situations, but with a higher ISO comes more “noise”. The photo develops a grainy shot as compared to a crisp shot. My Canon t4i’s ISO ranges from 100-12800, which is a ridiculously high number in my opinion. I personally never go above 400 to maintain image quality. So don’t over adjust the ISO, got it. What’s next?

Think back to a previous post. Shutter speed is the time that the camera shutter is open to capture the picture. This camera’s shutter can be as little 1/4000^th of a second to capture moments such as in sports. Lower shutter speeds would be used to capture the entire motion such as, light streaks at night.

Now you’re probably thinking – So what? Well this means that higher shutter speeds let in less light (because the shutter is open for a shorter time period) and vice versa. Ok, so on cloudy days/dim lighting I need a lower shutter speed, got it. Not exactly. Shutter speed is also needed to capture movement. So if any subjects are going to be moving (and if you’re like me and only take photos of your dogs that can’t sit still), you need a relatively fast shutter speed. So how do I correct lighting issues now?

Aperture is the degree to which the lens is open that effects the amount of light let in by the camera. A lower aperture actually means a larger opening allowing more light whereas a higher aperture results in a smaller opening with less light. This is probably my favorite feature. My Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 handles this like a dream. It’s quite the bundle for your money.

It also enables the camera to adjust the depth of field. This means that parts of the background is not in focus, or blurred out. That way the focus is only on the main subject and viewer is not distracted by the background. It is also a casual photographer’s best friend when photographing candid shots children (or fur children for me) at home without worrying about the laundry or dishes in the background. Thank god no one can see how far behind I am. Phew.

Here is a graphical representation of all the mumbo-jumbo above.

So let’s see how this process works. Warning: This can be a long and tedious process. A lot of people choose automatic because it is much easier. You can adjust manual settings for when you’re facing away from the sun, but guess what – when your turn…you guessed it, you must change the settings again. If it’s so much work then why does anyone choose manual? It’s simple. Manual gives the photographer a sense of accomplishment and pride. You captured that glorious photo not the camera, you chose the correct settings, you are the reason the photo is admired by all. And I feel like I should state for the record that in no way, shape, form, or fashion am I labeling myself as a “professional photographer”. I have no aspirations to turn this hobby into a career. I prefer to capture life in action rather than creating photo shoots, and that is my goal for photography skills. So this is typically what happens when I start to adjust settings…

f1.8            ISO 400            1/500th/second

Holy krap, that photo is blinding. Too. Much. Light.

f1.8               ISO 400                  1/2000th/second

Better but still too much.

f1.8              ISO 400                   1/4000th/second

Getting closer.

f1.8              ISO 200             1/4000th/second

Finally.

Now as you may have noticed, aperture stayed the same throughout that process. Well I have my reasons. I’m really digging the utilization of depth of field right now so I love to keep a low aperture. Also, aperture lets in natural light, as opposed to ISO, and I try to keep a generally fast shutter speed to account for for my inability to hold a camera still. And I’m generally taking photos of dogs running, which requires a fast shutter speed.

So hopefully this has helped you learn a little more about adjusting settings to capture stunning photos. Just remember as I stated and demonstrated, this is a tedious and sometimes annoying process so hang in there. It’s rewarding in the end. Go forth young grasshopper and capture all of life’s greatest moments.

Here are a few examples of my life’s favorite moments. Hopefully they can ignite your passion for photography. These photos were uploaded from a raw format and no editing adjustments have been made yet.

These photos are of my dog, Leo, and were taken at my apartment on April, 29th.

f/1.8     1/1600     100

f/1.8     1/1600     100

f/1.8     1/1600     100

This photo is of an antique tractor on Shannon Davis’ farm in Bono, AR on June 28th.

f/1.8     1/2500     100

This photo is of Leo and Mac, my boyfriend’s dog. It was taken at my boyfriend’s house on June 30th.

f/1.8     1/4000     200

 Mac & Leo again. Leo may be super washed out but I absolutely love this photo.

f/1.8     1/3200     200

This is Mac again taken at my boyfriend’s house. Isn’t he majestic?

f/1.8     1/3200     200

RAW vs. JPEG

So along with the Canon vs. Nikon (*cough* Team Canon!) there is the RAW vs. JPEG battle, too.  Really they are just two different image formats produced by the camera. And you’ll eventually ask yourself, “Which one do I Choose?”. Check out this list courtesy of Digital Photography School for the technical aspects of each format.

A RAW file is:

• Not an image file (special software if normally required to view the file)
• Uncompressed (large files)
• Complete (lossless) data from the camera’s sensor (The camera retains as much of the original data as possible)
• Higher in dynamic range (ability to display highlights and shadows)
• Lower contrast (flat, washed-out look)
• Not as sharp
• Requires post-processing before printing
• Read only (changes cannot be saved to RAW file)

A JPEG file is:

• Standard, readable format
• Compressed file
• Lower in dynamic range
• Higher in contrast
• Sharper
• Suitable for immediate printing, sharing, or posting
• Requires less correction
• Able to be edited (data is lost each time an edit is made)

Notice the difference between these two photos taken with a 50 mm lens at 100 ISO, 1/4000th shutter speed, and 1.8 aperture.

                                              RAW                                                                                    JPEG

Ok, so what does all that mumbo-jumbo mean? Well, it means that RAW format will be the truest form of the image. It will also be a much larger file (normally 2-3x larger) and will require additional editing before it can be shared with anyone. A JPEG is a much smaller file that does not require any processing before it can be shared. Edits can be made, but is not a necessity to view the photo as it is with a RAW format.

So which one do I use? Well, that depends (another one of those answers, really?!) I can’t tell you which one to use. The choice is up to you. However, I can provide instances where one format would be better to use than the other. If you are only going to upload the photos to facebook or keep for personal records, use JPEGs. They take us less space and require less editing. If you plan to edit your photos in any way or publish them, use RAW. They allow for a truer image to be produced and edited without altering the image permanently. Also, when you shoot in RAW, the camera decides the color values as compared to shooting in JPEG, when the computer decides the color value. Or in other words, would you ask the department store about Sam Edelman’s latest shoe line or would you ask Sam Edelman himself? Sam Edelman, of course! You always go to the source. Your camera is always, always going to produce a more accurate interpretation of the photo than the computer, because your camera created the photo.

Still can’t decide? Shoot in both formats. Your camera will allow you to store a RAW and JPEG file of the same photo. Warning: This requires a massive amount of space to store both on your memory card/camera. Personally, I started shooting in both formats so I could learn the difference between the two. And it just provides an easier adjustment than switching to one completely. Now I have transitioned to RAW only and can see the benefits.

And the camera I chose is…

The beloved & beautiful Canon Rebel T4i

“Canon is proud to introduce its most sophisticated Rebel ever [before the T5i was released even though they’re almost identical]—the EOS Rebel T4i DSLR! Built to make advanced photography simple and fun, the new Rebel T4i delivers phenomenal image quality, high performance, and fast, intuitive operation. This EOS Rebel amps up the speed with the powerful DIGIC 5 Image Processor that helps make high-speed continuous shooting of up to 5.0 fps possible—great for capturing fast action. An 18.0 Megapixel CMOS sensor ensures that every image is shot in superb, high resolution; and an extended ISO range of 100-12800 gives photographers the opportunities to take the Rebel T4i into more shooting situations than ever before. A 9-point all cross-type AF system (including a high-precision dual cross f/2.8 center point) delivers improved autofocus performance, and a new Hybrid CMOS AF System increases autofocus speed when shooting photos and video in Live View. For users interested in creating impressive videos, the Rebel T4i is ready to help you create your next masterpiece. Movie Servo AF provides continuous focus of moving subjects, so you never miss a moment. A built-in stereo microphone and manual audio level adjustment helps ensure that your audio will match the stunning quality of your video. First ever for an EOS Rebel, the Rebel T4i features a Vari-angle Touch Screen 3.0-inch Clear View LCD monitor II, which allows fast and intuitive camera operation. Add compatibility with Canon’s proven EF and EF-S lenses and a slew of EOS accessories, the Rebel T4i is an incredibly versatile tool for creating the images and videos you envision (Canon).”

That’s right, touchscreen! You can pinch and scroll just like your iPhone or iPad. It is by far my feature about my camera. I was slightly worried at first because this was the first model with that feature and normally that means a lot of bugs. So far, it has operated seamlessly (and yes, I just knocked on wood or at least I think my desk is made of wood – close enough).

There are several other cool features concerning DSLRs and this particular camera including:

1. The screen is a rotating/tilt screen (see above picture). You can pull the screen out and rotate it up to 180 degrees to achieve the perfect selfie – no duck faces please. This feature also allows for the screen to face inward when the camera is not in use to prevent damage.
2. The screen can also function in live mode (meaning you do not have to look through the viewfinder). While this feature is not the most accurate, it is good for beginners and people adjusting from point and shoot cameras, which share this feature. You simply push a button on the back of the camera (next to the viewfinder) to switch bath and forth between this mode. Is there anything this screen can’t do?
3. Aperture is the degree to which the lens is open that effects the amount of light let in by the camera. A lower aperture actually means a larger opening allowing more light whereas a higher aperture results in a smaller opening with less light. This feature can be accessed through the main menu. It also enables the camera to adjust the depth of field or blur out parts of the background that are not in focus (so that’s how all those pictures on Pinterest were taken).
4. Shutter speed is the time that the camera shutter is open to capture the picture. This camera’s shutter can be as little 1/4000^th of a second to capture moments such as in sports. Lower shutter speeds would be used to capture the entire motion such as, light streaks at night. The shutter speed is adjustable from the menu on the back of the camera.
5. The mode dial dictates which settings you can control and which ones the camera controls. The settings range from A+ (auto) mode meaning the camera is in complete control to M (manual) where the user is in control. There are also modes that are designed to adapt to certain instances such as landscape, portrait, night, or sport. A new mode, HDR (High-Dynamic Range), has been added to the T4i model. In this mode, the camera takes 3 pictures; one over exposed, one normal, and one underexposed are taken, and then certain elements of each picture are combined to create one composite image.

For more information, check out this review from CNET.

Click here for a full list of the specifications.

Click here to view the entire Canon t4i manual electronically.

Photos courtesy of Canon.

Canon vs. Nikon

Photo courtesy of Peta Pixel

Canon VS. Nikon: Which Camera Should You Charge to the Card?

 

If you’re considering buying a new DSLR camera, the first choice to make is which brand to choose. When it comes to DSLRS there are two obvious frontrunners that dominate 90% of the market: Canon and Nikon. Both companies produce quality cameras but the teams are clearly defined with consumers and professionals.  Yes, there are other companies that produce quality cameras, but for this article I will only be comparing the top two market defenders. I mean you wouldn’t consider a movie pretzel if you had the option to get nachos or popcorn. At the end of this article, I will tell you which brand I prefer, but until then I will try to keep my loyalty a secret. (*cough* Team Nachos!)

 

Check out this list provided by Improve Photography for the advantages of Canon and Nikon DSLR cameras. Arrreeeee yoooouuu reeeaddddyyy to SHUTTER?! (Ok, that was a little corny – my apologies.)

 

Advantages of Canon

• Video – Canon has trumped Nikon in terms of video performance over the past years.  Nikon lags far behind Canon (1080p and more frame rates) in this aspect.  
• Price – Nikon cameras and lenses are often slightly more expensive than Canon.  Nikons generally cost approximately 8% than the comparable Canon gear.
• Megapixel Count – Some photographers don’t care about this, but it is handy to be able to crop in tight with more megapixels (it is more important to professionals or if you wish to print photos on a very large scale).  Canons have outperformed Nikons in terms of pixel count for a few years now.
• Availability – When Canon announces a new camera, you can generally expect to get it in your hands within a short period of time.  When Nikon announces a new camera or lens (especially higher-end gear), it considerably longer (4 to 6 months).
• Focus motors – All modern Canon lenses have built-in focus motors including the entry-level models which is only present in the high-end Nikon models.

 

Advantages of Nikon

• Low-Light Performance – Over the past two years, most people would agree that Nikon has generally set the mark with superior low-light cameras.
• Number of autofocus points – Some have argued that Nikons have more autofocus points than their Canon equivalents.  A low number of autofocus points on Canon cameras means there isn’t an autofocus point for where you want to focus in the frame, forcing the photographer to focus and then recompose.
• Flash Control – Nikon has had better built-in options for controlling off-camera flash for years.  Canon is bridging the gap with its new built-in flash triggers in the newer models.
• Larger APS-C sensors – Nikon uses slightly larger sensors in their crop sensor DSLR cameras.  You can read about the difference between crop and full frame cameras here.
• Availability of minor features – Nikon has geotagging via GPS in the camera and expanded auto-exposure-bracketing sequences.  

Ding! Ding! Ding!

 

This round goes to: no one. It proves the biggest point that supporters have argued since the beginning: it’s all about user preference. There is no clear front-runner. Each brand has advantages over the other, but geotagging your photos may not be an interest of yours so why use it to form your decision? Yeah, it’s a cool feature, but would you ever use it? Example: Do you need a fork that automatically twirls your spaghetti?

 

So which brand did I choose?

 

Check out my next post to find out!